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Specialty & Accessories

Under-Stair Storage Calculator

Enter your stair's rise, run and width. Get the usable cubic footage in the triangular void beneath it — after subtracting framing, finish, and the clearance height you actually need to stand or bend into.

Free to use No sign-up required Geometry checked against sibling calculators Imperial & metric supported
Sloped-ceiling volume calculated Framing & finish loss included Fire-separation reminder built in Last verified July 2026
Checked line-by-line by our in-house stair-planning team before publishing — figures re-verified July 2026.
in

Same floor-to-floor height you'd enter on the Rise and Run Calculator — it sets the tall end of the void.

in

The floor length the stair covers above — pull this straight from your Stair Rise and Run Calculator result.

inches

Usually matches the stair's clear width. Measure between the outer stringers or the framed walls, whichever is tighter.

Advanced: usable clearance height

There's no code minimum for storage clearance — this is your own "worth building shelves here" line, not a code figure. 48" is a common stooping-storage threshold.

Advanced: framing, stringer & finish
inches

Typical 2x4 stud (3.5") plus one layer of drywall (0.5"). Set to 0 if the space will stay unfinished framing only.

inches

Actual depth of the cut stringer — 11.25" for a 2x12, 9.25" for a 2x10. This is lost from the front interior height once the ceiling is furred to follow it.

inches
Advanced: item fit & door swing
inches
sq ft

A hinged door's swing arc uses up floor area you can't shelve. Leave at 0 for a sliding, bifold or pocket door.

Side profile diagram of the under-stair storage void

Results

Full Void Volume
ft³
Net Usable Volume
ft³
Usable Depth
ft
Usable Floor Area
ft²
Net Floor Area
ft²
Interior Height, Front
in
Net Width
in
Item Fits?
How to measure

Measuring the void before you calculate

This tool reuses the same three numbers your stair layout already produced. Get those right and the storage numbers follow automatically.

1

Pull your rise and run from the stair layout

Total Rise and Total Run are the same floor-to-floor height and floor length you'd enter on the Rise and Run Calculator — the void beneath the stair is the mirror image of the stair itself.

2

Measure the clear width

Measure between whatever will bound the storage space on each side — the outer stringers if it's staying open, or the planned framed walls if it's being built into a closet.

3

Set a clearance height that matches your plan

Decide how low a ceiling you're willing to shelve or crawl into. There's no code answer here — it's a judgment call between usable depth and comfort.

4

Check the fit and compliance chips

The Item Fits chip confirms your tallest planned bin clears the sloped ceiling at the depth you'd actually place it, and the fire-separation chip is a reminder to confirm local code before finishing the enclosure.

The math

The four formulas behind every result

The void under a stair is a right triangular prism with a sloped ceiling. Every result below comes from slicing that shape at your chosen clearance height.

Full Triangular Void Volume

V = ½ × Run × Rise × Width

The complete wedge beneath the stair, before any framing or clearance limit is applied — the ceiling-to-floor volume if you could use every cubic inch.

Usable Depth

d = Run × (1 − Clearance ÷ Rise)

How far in from the tall end the sloped ceiling stays at or above your clearance height, measured along the floor.

Net Usable Volume

V = ½ × (Rise + Clearance) × d × Width_net

The trapezoid-shaped slice from the tall end back to the clearance line, times the width remaining after knee-wall and finish losses.

Interior Height, Front

H = Rise − Stringer Depth − Finish

The real clear height at the tallest point once a sloped ceiling is furred to follow the underside of the stringer — always less than the raw rise number.

Worked example

Walking through a 108" rise, 130" run void

Same rise and run as the site's Rise and Run Calculator worked example, so the two pages agree on the same staircase.

1

Full void volume

Converting to feet: 9' rise, 10.83' run, 3' width. ½ × 10.83 × 9 × 3 = 146.3 ft³ — the entire wedge, before any deductions.

2

Usable depth at a 48" clearance

d = 10.83 × (1 − 48÷108) = 10.83 × 0.556 ≈ 6.02 ft (72.2") back from the tall end before the ceiling drops below 48".

3

Net usable volume

With a 4.5" knee wall on one side, net width is 2.625'. Trapezoid area = ½ × (9 + 4) × 6.02 ≈ 39.1 ft². × 2.625' width ≈ 102.7 ft³ — this is the number worth building shelving for.

4

Interior height at the front

108" − 11.25" stringer − 0.5" drywall = 96.3" (8.02') of real clear height at the doorway — over a foot less than the raw 108" rise, which is the number people mistakenly design around.

This is exactly why a raw rise number oversells the space — the stringer depth and ceiling finish come off the front height, and the clearance line cuts the back off entirely. A wider knee wall or a lower clearance line both push the net volume number up or down significantly; try both in the Advanced panels.

Clearance categories

What different clearance heights are good for

These are commonly used space-planning categories, not code figures — there is no code minimum height for storage space. Pick the one that matches how you'll actually use it.

Clearance RangeTypical UseAccess Style
Under 24"Flat bins slid in from the open side; seasonal decorationsCrawl / reach-in only
24"–47"Stacked totes, luggage, vacuum and cleaning gearStoop and reach
48"–65"Coat closet, pantry shelving, small appliancesBent-over standing
66" and upWalk-in closet, half-bath, wine storage, home office nookFull standing
Code reference

What code actually regulates here

Building code has almost nothing to say about how much storage volume you get — it regulates fire separation for any usable enclosed space under a stair, which is the one figure worth confirming locally.

ItemTypical RequirementNotes
Fire-separation of enclosed usable space under stairs[VERIFY: exact IRC section & gypsum thickness for your adopted code edition]Commonly cited as ½" gypsum board on the enclosed side under IRC — section numbering and thickness vary by code edition and local amendment.
Minimum usable storage clearanceNo code minimumPurely a design choice — see the Clearance Categories table above.
Egress / handrail impactNot applicableStorage below the stair doesn't affect the stair's own tread, riser or handrail compliance above it.

Reference only — always confirm the fire-separation requirement against your local jurisdiction's adopted code before enclosing the space.

Beyond the raw volume

Framing, fire-rating & access

A void with plenty of raw volume can still make a poor closet if these four things aren't planned for.

Fire-separation on the enclosed side

[VERIFY: gypsum thickness × applicable IRC section]

Enclosing the void into usable space typically triggers a fire-rated gypsum requirement on the stair side, protecting anyone using the stair above from a fire that starts in the storage. Confirm the exact thickness and section for your adopted code edition before drywalling.

Stepped shelving vs. sloped ceiling

Stepped: rectangular bays at fixed heights

Instead of one continuous sloped ceiling, many builders frame 2–3 stepped rectangular bays that follow the stringer in stages. It sacrifices a little volume near each step-down but makes shelving dramatically easier to build square.

Door and access choice

Hinged door: subtract swing area

A hinged door needs its full swing arc clear on both sides, which eats directly into your Usable Floor Area. A sliding, bifold, or pocket door reclaims that area — enter 0 in Door Swing Area to model that option.

Structural notching limits

Never notch or bore a stringer's tension edge

It's tempting to notch into the stringer itself to gain another inch of shelf depth. Don't — stringers are structural members, and cutting into the bottom (tension) edge can weaken the stair above. Build storage framing independent of the stringers.

These are planning-stage estimates, not a stamped structural or fire-code design. A permit-triggering renovation should get a local plan check before you cut drywall.

Avoid these

Common mistakes when planning under-stair storage

Most disappointing under-stair closets trace back to one of these five planning errors, not to bad carpentry.

📏

Designing around the raw rise number

The stringer depth and ceiling finish always eat into the front interior height. Plan shelving and door height against Interior Height, Front — not the raw Total Rise.

🔺

Ignoring the back of the wedge entirely

The last few feet of a long run drop to near-zero height. Treating the whole floor footprint as shelvable overstates capacity — use Usable Depth, not Total Run, for shelving layout.

🚪

Framing a hinged door without checking swing area

A hinged door can consume several square feet of the shallow-height zone right at the entrance — often the most usable part of the space. Model it with the Door Swing Area field before committing.

🧱

Notching the stringer for extra depth

Cutting into the stringer's bottom edge to steal an inch of shelf space compromises the structural member carrying the stair above. Build the shelf frame off the floor and side walls instead.

🔥

Skipping the fire-separation check

An enclosed usable space under a stair commonly needs fire-rated gypsum board on the stair side under residential code. Confirm the requirement with your local building department before finishing the enclosure.

Who uses this

When to use an under-stair storage calculator

Under-stair space is one of the most commonly wasted footprints in a home — this shows up whenever someone is finally deciding what to do with it.

🏚️

Basement Finishing

Turning an open stair void into a finished closet during a basement remodel.

📦

Custom Closet Design

Sizing shelf bays and drawer units before ordering closet components.

🍷

Wine or Pantry Nook

Checking whether the void is deep and tall enough for a small wine rack or pantry shelving.

🐈

Pet Nook Planning

Sizing a crawl-in pet bed or litter box area that only needs a low clearance zone.

🧰

Utility & Vacuum Storage

Confirming a vacuum, mop bucket, or tool caddy fits at the depth it would actually sit.

🏗️

New Construction Planning

Deciding at framing stage whether to box the void in as a closet or leave it open.

FAQ

Common questions

How much storage space is under a staircase?
It depends entirely on your stair's rise, run and width — a typical 9-foot-rise residential stair has a full void volume in the range of 100–160 cubic feet, but the usable portion after clearance and framing losses is often only 60–70% of that.
Why is my usable volume so much lower than the full triangle volume?
Two things cut it down: the clearance height line removes the shallow back portion of the wedge entirely, and the knee wall or finish thickness removes a slice of width along the enclosed side.
Is there a code minimum height for under-stair storage?
No. Storage clearance height is a design choice, not a code requirement. The one code-related item that does apply is fire separation if you enclose the space into usable storage — confirm that requirement locally.
Do I need fire-rated drywall under my stairs?
Many residential codes require gypsum board on the enclosed side of usable space under a stair, but the exact thickness and applicable section vary by code edition and local amendment — verify with your building department before finishing.
Why is my interior height lower than my stair's total rise?
The total rise measures floor to floor along the stair itself. Once you fur a ceiling to follow the underside of the stringer and add drywall, the stringer's own depth plus the finish thickness come directly off the usable interior height at the front of the closet.
Should I build a sloped ceiling or stepped shelving?
A sloped ceiling that follows the stringer captures slightly more raw volume but is harder to shelve cleanly. Stepped rectangular bays sacrifice some volume near each step-down but make square shelving much easier to build — most finished closets use stepped framing.
Can I notch the stringer to gain extra depth?
No — the stringer is a structural member carrying the stair load above. Notching or boring into its bottom edge can weaken it. Build any shelving frame independent of the stringer instead.
How much floor area does a hinged door take away?
A standard door's swing arc typically uses several square feet right at the entrance — often the tallest, most usable part of the void. Enter your door's swing footprint in the Door Swing Area field, or use a sliding or bifold door to avoid the loss entirely.
Does the width under my stairs count the full stair width?
Only if the void is left completely open. If you're framing a knee wall on one or both long sides to enclose it, use the Enclosed Sides setting to subtract that framing thickness from the usable width.
What clearance height should I use for luggage or bins?
Most rolling luggage and storage totes are 12"–24" tall, so a 24"–36" clearance line usually works well for that zone even though it won't be a walk-in space.
Why does the calculator ask for both a bin height and a clearance height?
Clearance height sets the boundary of the whole usable zone shown in the diagram. Item height is a separate spot-check confirming your tallest planned item actually clears that boundary — the two rarely need to match exactly.
Does this calculator account for landings on a long staircase?
No — it assumes one straight flight above the void. A staircase with a landing has two separate voids beneath it (and often a taller, boxier one under the landing itself); run this calculator once per flight for an accurate total.